Balenciaga Reimagines the Codes of Pop Culture with an Energizing Show

For its first fashion show in the City of Angels, Demna, the artistic director of the French fashion house, presents a striking and jubilant Fall 2024 collection that plays with Californian stereotypes.

Under the azure sky, meticulously maintained millionaire villas, and with the iconic Hollywood Sign in the backdrop to set the scene, welcome to Los Angeles at the Balenciaga Fall 2024 show. The French fashion house had never before showcased in the City of Angels. However, this choice was not a coincidence. Almost exactly a year ago, Balenciaga found itself embroiled in controversy following a media scandal related to a controversial advertising campaign. This scandal had emerged precisely across the Atlantic, largely fueled by Qanon conspiracy theorists. A year later, the French house has chosen to present its Fall 2024 collection in the midst of the storm, in the United States. For them, it is an opportunity to reestablish a connection with a crucial market, to reconnect with a country where the brand's expansion continues (a new boutique has just opened on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills with a floor dedicated to Couture, a rarity outside Paris), and to understand each other once more.

The mere mention of the name Los Angeles is enough to conjure a multitude of images and references that have shaped American mythology. Clearly, the city of limitless possibilities inspires Demna, the artistic director of Balenciaga. For this fashion show, he revisits all the iconography of Californian pop culture that has permeated for decades through films, TV series, music videos, reality shows, paparazzi shots, and celebrities – reinterpreting them with Balenciaga's codes. It all begins with the location of the show on Windsor Boulevard: a true dive into Hollywood films like Sunset Boulevard or the cult classic What Ever Happened to Baby Jane? (1962), which were filmed in this chic residential neighborhood of Hancock Park.

Then, the fashion show opens with girls and boys in a hurry, dressed for their morning workout session, as you often see on the streets of L.A. They sport an athleisure look with sports bras, black leggings, and oversized 10XL sneakers, carrying yoga mats under their arms. They sip on energizing, healthy black juices – naturally, in the color of Balenciaga – co-created exclusively in collaboration with Erewhon, a trendy grocery store in Los Angeles. They return from this organic market with imitation paper kraft shopping bags made of reusable nylon.

Demna plays with references, reimagines them, and transforms them. Following are silhouettes reminiscent of Paris Hilton or Pamela Anderson from the 90s/2000s who have taken a leap into the future, wearing pink velour tracksuits in the style of Juicy Couture, with visible thongs and oversized heeled UGG boots. In this reimagined Los Angeles, you'll also encounter Justin Bieber look-alikes in baggy pajamas, oversized jackets, and hoodies worn over their heads, as well as ultra-chic customers from the luxury boutiques of Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills dressed in tweed suits. Rapper Cardi B makes a sensation in an oversized electric blue coat with sharp claws and a ponytail-train. The entire collection demonstrates both a mastery of craftsmanship and, more importantly, a keen understanding of the era, the people, their habits, and their appearances, all of which Demna transports into his own universe.

Certainly, Los Angeles wouldn't be Los Angeles without a red carpet. The show naturally concludes with a series of spectacular evening gowns, inspired by original designs created by Cristobal Balenciaga. All of them are tailored for the larger-than-life dreams and aspirations that dominate in Hollywood. "I wanted to celebrate the multiple facets of Los Angeles by considering all the clichés, all the stereotypes associated with this iconic city," Demna noted at the end of the show. "It also echoes my approach to work for Balenciaga. I like to explore a wide spectrum, designing a lazy jogging short as well as a structured couture dress."

A Star-Studded Front Row

The collection subtly blends homage and joyful parody. It's a striking vision, immediately understood and applauded by an all-star cast of personalities who attended the show as neighbors. Among them were Eva Longoria, Kim Kardashian and her sister Kendall Jenner, Lisa Rinna and her daughters, Brooklyn Beckham and his wife Nicole Peltz. "Amazing," exclaimed the latter backstage after the show. "The energy was incredible, the spirit of this collection was so L.A. I want to wear all the sweatshirts. It was just cool." Salma Hayek Pinault and her husband François-Henri Pinault, the CEO of Kering, the owner of Balenciaga, were also in attendance. But the biggest star of this front row was undoubtedly the Oscar-winning actress Nicole Kidman, who became the new ambassador for the house on the day of the show. "Balenciaga has been with me in some of the most memorable moments of my life, from my wedding to the Oscars red carpet." The story continues to unfold in broad daylight.