FASHION
DiMattio’s Sculptures Embodied in Tory Burch FW2020
Challenging the traditional norms of femininity
Hanane Tabet
13-April-2020
Inspired by Francesca DiMattio’s sculptures, Tory Burch Fall/Winter 2020 collection reinterprets classic and nostalgic themes: menswear suiting cut with a softer shape, structural details played against fluid silhouettes, historic references reworked with modern ideas. All epitomized in the gray power suit, silk lace blouse and tall leather boots. Refined and lighthearted, especially the prints which were designed by DiMattio.
Tory Burch FW collection featured new Eleanor shoulder bag — structured and crafted from Italian leather. For the Lee Radziwill collection, new interpretations of the ‘70s saddlebag and an accordion shape. Every look is punctuated with a strong boot: mid-calf, riding, over-the-knee; pointed or tapered-square toe.
Silhouettes
An exploration in proportion and form, the collection exudes a refined nonchalance. Caftans are layered over silky pajama dressing while tailored trousers are tucked into over-the-knee boots. High-collar jackets with sculpted shoulders offset effortless dresses. Architectural hemlines, exaggerated sleeves and collars give the collection depth and dimension.
Palette
Bursts of bright yellow, mint and petal pink pop against a subdued palette of cream, white, charcoal, navy and black.
Prints & Patterns
The collection features a series of prints developed by ceramicist Francesca DiMattio. The maximalist, exuberant prints—each based on a DiMattio sculpture—range from painterly florals to abstract takes on Sèvres porcelain. Plaids and stripes bring an understated nostalgia while a Delft-inspired blue-and-white tile print nods to Tory’s love of classic porcelain.
Fabrications
The textural play echoes the mixed-material composition of DiMattio’s sculptures with sumptuous velvet against cotton jacquard; cotton poplin layered over crepe de chine. Distorted paillettes cascade down silk satin and crepe evening dresses while intertwined strands of organza give knitwear a cotton candy-like quality. Trapunto stitching, smocking and sunburst pleats are seen throughout the collection.
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