The new generation of mascaras

As the basic makeup continues to improve, facemasks are forcing us to focus our makeup on the eyes area.

The pursuit of the ultimate mascara

In May 2020, Huda Kattan, the founder of Huda Beauty, shared a teaser on her Instagram account about the launch of a new makeup product, which attracted nearly 10,000 people who put their names on the waiting list. Wondering why? Because of the mascara, called Legit Lashes, designed with a double tip. This real craze proves the power of this basic makeup, which is constantly reinventing itself. The pursuit of the ultimate mascara never seems to be over, and women’s expectations are difficult to meet.

"They expect a mascara to work as hard as they do," laughs Priscilla Ono, Fenty Beauty make-up artist, who also debuted her first mascara this year. Understand that it performs on all fronts, both in its hold and in the volume, length and curvature provided, and all this without conceding any deep intensity, the signature of real work on pigments.

“This is one of the products that we demand the most. Not to mention the expectations regarding the shape of the brush and, of course, the object itself, ”says Harold James, national artistry ambassador for Marc Jacobs Beauty.

The American brand is also counting on a major launch in this area, after their bestseller Velvet Noir.

THE POWER OF FORMULAS

These are all reasons that lead the various design teams to work hand in hand.

“It's really a pretty specific dimension of mascara. Its success is based on the laboratory which works on the formula, as the design department imagines the packaging for the brush,” says Caroline Nègre, international scientific director of Yves Saint Laurent Beauty.

For YSL, the False Eyelash Effect Volume has known a noticeable success, while Radical version combines a formula enriched with wax and polymers and a longer brush with more flexible fibers. Chanel, which unveiled the first 3D brush in 2018, took a step forward putting its Volume Revolution in cosmetic business. In 2020, Chanel unveils its second version of Volume Stretch, confirming the success of its innovating mascara.

Unlocked Instant Extensions Mascara, Hourglass

Legit Lashes, Huda Beauty

Pillow Talk Push Up Lashes, Charlotte Tilbury

L'Obscur, Gucci

Mad Eyes, Guerlain

At Lash'd, Marc Jacobs Beauty

Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Radical, Yves Saint Laurent

EYELASHES CARE 

However, brands had to secure another perspective in 2020; that of eyelashes care.

“A woman wants to be able to apply makeup with eyelashes care benefits in just one application, by providing definition and volume while strengthening the eyelashes, which are used daily,” explains Harold James, who mentioned that the new At Lash’d is enriched with vitamin B5 and biotin peptides.

"We are incorporating more plant extracts and active ingredients into our formulas to meet comfort, protection and hydration needs," adds the Scientific Director of YSL Beauty. Lancôme's iconic Hypnôse, which paved the way in 2004, is focusing on hair care technologies, to make an unmistakable success through its product.

Today, lashes care becomes a priority. The proof is that La Bouche Rouge even sulks the original name of the mascara. Its Black Serum features a 100% recyclable glass bottle and the world's first brush without microplastics since it is made with low castor oil fibers. Not to mention a formula composed of 99% natural ingredients.

Caroline Nègre says: "One of the big challenges for the future is to reduce formulations and tend toward naturalness while maintaining good performance."

While mascaras can no longer be formulated without the eyelashes care benefits, it is not forbidden to specifically treat the eyelashes. Lancôme has just launched a serum, Lash Revitalizing Serum, to be applied as a four-week treatment on your eyelashes, rich in amino acids, which aims to revitalize, strengthen and protect lashes. The lashes treatment, which was created in 2007 by Dr. Michael Brinkenhoff for his wife suffering from cancer, now claims more than 6 million followers worldwide, won over by its promise: to fight against aging eyelashes.

Lash Revitalizing Serum, Lancôme