Dangers of Using Expired Makeup

The idea of recycling your old makeup products can be tempting in an ecological approach, but it is not without risk. A dermatologist answers and helps to read the packaging.

On TikTok, the eldorado of new beauty trends, it's time for recycling. Some users find old eyeshadow palettes that are not available for sale today and try to rehabilitate their favorite products from the past. Others are looking for solutions to recover a crumpled powder or repair a broken packaging. The viral theme "Cosmetic Repairs", which has more than 1.4 billion views on the social network, is a testament to this, with video tutorials on how to restore worn out or damaged makeup. For example, adding glycerin to a dried-out blush to make its texture more fluid. Or by pouring a few drops of saline into a tube of mascara to "thin out" the material.

The approach may seem ecological and economical at first glance, but it clearly raises questions of hygiene. "I do not advise to make this kind of mixture," objects Dr. Flora Fischer, dermatologist and author of the book "Confidences d'une dermatologue". "Makeup is not only composed of pigments, it also contains active ingredients. The formula can thus become a culture medium for bacteria if it has not been well preserved; so diluting its ingredients is not a good idea." To adopt a more eco-friendly consumption, the doctor suggests instead making your own makeup products with dedicated kits or choosing smaller formats in stores.

Expiration date after opening

To the dismay of recycling enthusiasts, make-up products do not last forever. Like foodstuffs, they all have an expiration date written on their packaging. If they have never been opened and remain well closed, they can stay in our closets for a maximum of thirty months (or two and a half years). This is the deadline until which they fulfill their initial function and comply with health safety requirements (1), but "it all depends on how you store them", notes Dr. Fischer: "If they are kept dry, in a room that does not exceed twenty degrees, the risks are limited".

When this date is less than 30 months, it must be indicated on the product; this is called the date of minimum durability. It is preceded by the words "use preferably before end" or a symbol representing an hourglass.

Once opened, the make-up must respect the deadline of PAO (expiry after opening) registered on its container in the form of a small pictogram representing an opened case. "On average, count three to six months for mascara, one to two years for a lipstick, eye pencil or eye shadow, and six months to a year for a foundation, "reports the dermatologist, before reminding that these are valid indications "only if we take care to keep them in good conditions. We will have to say goodbye to some palettes that have been lying around in our drawers for years and that we were reluctant to part with because of their sentimental value...

Undesirable effects

Not only, their effectiveness will no longer be optimal (holding, pigmentation, sensoriality ...) but in the worst case, they can even cause adverse effects. "When a makeup product is poorly preserved or expires, it becomes a place of proliferation of bacteria," warns the dermatologist. "They risk creating small infections, irritations, eczema, allergies. They can even cause cold sores on the mouth, and conjunctivitis or styes on the eyes. Also, the foundation becomes comedogenic, therefore it can cause acne outbreaks", details the expert. Hence the importance of sorting out your vanity. Finally, other elements of our make-up routine should not be neglected either: make-up brushes and sponges. Indeed, with daily use, "they can become real nests of bacteria", says Dr. Fischer, who advises to "spray antiseptic after each use or to clean them with soap regularly".