Colored, Glittery, Extra Fine... Eyebrows Reinvent Themselves to Take the Power

From the catwalks to social networks, eyebrows impose their presence. Scruffy or very fine, accentuated or bleached, made up or accessorized, they are the ones who sign the look. Instructions for use.

On the catwalks, social networks, the red carpet or simply in the street, we can only see them. While they used to be discreet, now eyebrows set the tone. Before, as they were optional, we plucked them a lot. And so, we made them even more optional. Today, they are at least as important as the eyes," says Tom Sapin, make-up artist at M.A.C Cosmetics. And during fashion shows or previews, a wind of freedom blows on this part of the face. We bleach, we accessorize, we shine... In short, everything is done to make them stand out.

Chronology of an advent

Until about ten years ago, eyebrows were kept low profile. "Then, women began to understand that they had to be adapted to the morphology of the face. However, to have a perfect line, the eyebrow is not enough, and, therefore, it is necessary to make it up on a daily basis (with at least a pencil and a fixing gel), or permanently", analyzes Maud Carlassare, the person in charge of the training at the Atelier du Sourcil. Today, permanent makeup has become more democratic, as techniques have evolved rapidly. "We appeal to the 18-25 year olds, influenced by social networks and reality TV, as well as to women in their 40s and 50s who want to look made up as soon as they wake up or correct a youthful mistake. And those 50-60 years old who have no more line or too sparse eyebrows." As a result, in addition to the classic restructuring, the methods of shading (microshading) for a blended effect or hair by hair (microblading) are on the rise. Both can be combined in the micrograyling technique, which plays on 3D and shades to give depth and relief.

If the 1990s were all about extreme hair removal, with Cara Delevingne's success on the catwalk, the break is complete. Gone are the fine lines; the eyebrow is bushy, imposing, visible. We get angry with our tweezers. Or, at least, we are much more measured. The look must have character. "As the eyebrows became more visible, we became aware of their importance. And some clients confide in us today that they wear less makeup on their lashes, less on their eyes, but the eyebrow remains indispensable," confides Maud Carlassare. This also explains the boom in treatments to boost hair growth, such as Augustinus Bader's Enhancing Serum, Typology's Eyelash & Brow Serum (pea peptides 2% + castor oil) or Anastasia Beverly Hills' Brow Genius Serum. It must also be said that the pandemic has come and gone. With the mask, it's all about the look, and eyebrows are no accessory in this reinvented communication.

Over the past year and a half, there's been a trend toward sharpening the line again. "There is clearly a nostalgia for the nineties within generation Z. This can be seen in fashion - the return of low waistlines and crop tops - but also in beauty details, such as lip gloss, lip liner, and the shape of eyebrows, explains Marianne Lecoq, Benefit expert. Best ambassador of this cyclical return of trends, the model Bella Hadid. On the steps of the last Cannes Film Festival, she revealed a more refined line. What to put the beauty radar on alert. At the beginning of the month, it is the young wife of Brooklyn Beckham, Nicola Peltz, who yielded in turn to this desire for finesse. What to ensure a return of the skinny brow as Britney Spears and other Gwen Stefani? "We are in a 1990 influence, but modernized: at the level of the head of the eyebrow, we are on a shape a little wider and natural. It is towards the heart and the tail that it is refined", analyzes Marianne Lecoq. She recommends turning to a professional if you want to follow this trend. "It's quite a delicate task, and it's best to call on someone outside and trained to follow the line and adapt this trend to the morphology of the face." And for the less bold? "For those who are hesitant or want to have some fleeting fun, makeup, with a good concealer under the brow (our Cakeless Concealer) and a thin enough pencil (Precisely, My Brow Pencil) to redraw the line, will be able to completely create the illusion."

When the eyebrow fades

Another trend on the red carpet and social networks? The bleaching of eyebrows: Bella Hadid at Stella McCartney (still her), but also Irina Shayk on the last Fenty show, or Kim Kardashian and Lady Gaga. All have given in to the call of the bleached brows. The influencer Lena Mahfouf jumped on the occasion of Halloween ... to redraw skinny brows like Christina Aguilera in the cover of Lady Marmalade for the soundtrack of Moulin Rouge.

But is this little coquetry only for celebrities and influencers, or can it pass the test of our daily lives? "In reality, few people ask us for this service in a salon. And let's face it, it's a fashion that's not evolving well. Eyebrows grow back much more slowly than hair. It takes at least six months to regain one's natural color, so until then, you'll have to assume a two-tone effect," warns Maud Carlassare. But if you're really over the hump, you can always recolor your eyebrows if you have regrets. Like Léna Situations, who entrusted her face to Benefit's experts a few days after her metamorphosis. "The only thing to keep in mind is that since we open the hair scales when we bleach, the break time for recoloring will be very quick," says Marianne Lecoq.

Here again, it is better to opt for make-up, less engaging, which allows the time of an evening, or a little more, to give the illusion of this faded effect. For Tom Sapin, even if the result is not identical to a real discoloration, it remains a good alternative, which is interesting to explore: "Removing the eyebrow is to put the eyes in the foreground. We will completely change the face. And so you can like it... or not at all. For me, it is necessary to dare if we are going in parallel to bet on a make-up of the eyes really strong, with coloured shadows, a very assumed pastel. Or a very marked mouth, burgundy, blueberry or even black. "

To test the trend at home

The M.A.C. expert reminds us that eyebrows should be worked on like shadows and dark circles: we choose a pinkish concealer if we have fair skin, and rather a peachy shade if we have medium skin tone, and finally we go for apricot or orange for darker skins. "On the other hand, we avoid creamy or too greasy materials and prefer long-lasting products, such as the Studio Fix Concealer, which we apply with a small brush, a brush or an old toothbrush. We apply the concealer back and forth, as we go, without pressing so that it settles only on the hair and not on the skin." For the brown eyebrows, one will leave on an orange cream blush before applying the concealer. "An option that can also be worn as is, for a fun pastel effect."

Migration of eye shadow

Another trend: migrating the blush or liner from the eyelid to the eyebrow. "The arch is not naturally moisturized, so the material will not cling by itself. We therefore apply a veil of a neutral base before opting for a highly pigmented blush that we can display in an intense way or work with a little more shades," adds Tom Sapin. The makeup artist advises building a harmonious line at the base of the hair while extending it by 3 or 4 mm for a tapered look. And for those who are fascinated by the Euphoria beauty series worn by Zendaya, the rhinestone option will perfect this very graphic makeup. "There is clearly a trend of collage in beauty. It's harder to dare, but not difficult, and very playful. You just have to be meticulous." To make it easier, the makeup artist creates a glittery effect with Dazzle Shadow Liquid Glitter Eye Shadow, which comes as a clear gel. "It can be applied on the eyebrows as well as on the eyes. And even as a top coat for mascara on the tips of the lashes. We live in a serious world, makeup is not, and we can have fun with it. And since everything leaves with a cotton ball, when night comes, let's let loose!"