BEAUTY
11 healthy glow treatments to do at home
Justine Feutry, Marion Louis – Madame Figaro
1-February-2021
With the pandemic having all its side effects on our skin, and the lockdown keeping us at home, we are preparing for a brand new skin under our masks, featuring universal serums, cosmetic micro-sculpters, haute couture care, neo-retinol and others …
Doctors at Massachusetts General Hospital in Boston have found a new disease: zoom dysmorphia. Indeed, since the first lockdown, cosmetic procedures have skyrocketed, and we blame the video conferences which distort the face, accentuate dark circles and wrinkles and also enlarge the nose, without mentioning other effects on the skin.
And yes, it’s going to be hard going back to reality especially for the Instagrammers who got used to all the beautifying filters making their complexion look perfect. “Small digital arrangements only display an avatar and not a reality, which makes them really disturbing” writes Dr. Valérie Leduc in her book La Médecine de la beauté. According to her, young women fear aging even more than older women. If women in their fifties have difficulties to get through these skin changes, Dr. Valérie sees that from generation to another, every day, women lack self-confidence. Although it’s difficult to get well-built against all these emotional feelings, it’s still better than fighting a losing battle, Valérie Leduc advocates medicine for prevention and liberation. So why not try and help nature though, and for this we have what it takes.
A new vision of anti-aging
"We must not lie to each other: against chronological aging, cosmetics cannot do much”, underlines Christine Lafforgue, dermo-pharmacologist and teacher at the University of Paris-Saclay, but it helps us to slow down time and grow older beautiful. " She also notes that we are moving more and more towards a combo aesthetic procedure + accompanying care. “Cosmetics is above all a way of life,” she insists. What really works? The simpler but systematic care routines, morning and evening, with an exfoliation and a mask from time to time. ” As a bonus, makeup, increasingly hybrid, which heals as much as it beautifies, and regular massages, because we know that stimulation pays off. And on the natural ingredients side, there’s no longer this miracle plant that comes from the last corner of the world, because what matters the most is the combination of proven ingredients.
We rely more and more on sure values that reassure, by constantly improving them. This is how the reference molecules are given a new lease of life: hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, retinol, glycerol, sugars, peptides, vitamins C, E and especially the very fashionable vitamin B3 (aka vitamin PP or niacinamide)… Not only do they reveal new properties, but we know better how to stabilize them and improve their activity. Without forgetting the vegetal and marine worlds, inexhaustible sources of youth. Thanks to biotechnologies, they give the best without the need to plunder them.
"Age is due to multiple parameters, and we cannot play on a single board," concedes Nathalie Broussard, scientific manager of the Shiseido group. Stem cells, epigenetics, cellular energy, neurosciences, skin immunity, inflamm'aging ... Each group has its strategy and its area of expertise. Not to mention what we discover every day ... As for example the role of microcirculation and blood vessels in aging, or that of the hair muscles on gravity, the importance of collagen 3 (native baby collagen) . So many new features for the next ten years. Science is putting attention more on health, and the boundaries between the cosmetic and medical worlds are becoming more and more porous. 2020 has been the year of transparency, minimalism, "cleanness". In 2021, this need for naturalness remains intact, with, in addition, a great expectation of effectiveness. We are also witnessing a lot of work on textures that are increasingly intelligent, surprising, sensory and clean.