BEAUTY
Colorful eyeshadows are taking over this summer
Color Block or Bi-color?
Justine Feutry / Madame Figaro
28-July-2020
When it comes to summer looks, it’s all about being a bit daring with a colorful makeup. The biggest proof is the runways; eyeshadows were ranging between ultra fluorescent and soft pastel shades to cover beautifully the eyelids.
From Milan to New York, London to Paris, colorful eyes were spotted on the catwalks. A bold choice that comes at the right time as the pandemic forced us to focus on eye makeup, when we can’t remove the facemask.
What’s better than a mix of colors to brighten the eyes, illuminate the face and add a unique touch to your look? There’s a decision to be made, whether you should opt for one eyeshadow color on the eyelids or make it a duo. We discussed these two trends with Tom Sapin, M.A.C Cosmetics make-up artist.
Versace SS20
Ulla Johnson SS20
Color-Block Eyeshadow
It was spotted at Versace and Ulla Johnson’s fashion shows, and there’s no doubt that this eye shadow effect will enhance anyface. It is also daring of course!
“It’s whether you like colors or you don’t. But if you decideto try it, you must fully achieve it,” says Tom Sapin.
Although the two fashion shows opted for fluorescent colors, you can always start with a softer alternative. “When the skin tone is lighter, it is wiser to choose pastel shades. On the other hand, when skin complexion is darker, you should opt for bold colors, because the latter will be absorbed, therefore, intense shades are needed.”
Balmain SS20
Bi-Color Effect
For those who would like to try this two-tone trend, the first question is how to choose the right duo. There are two options that are applicable in this matter: choose opposing colors or colors that go in tune with each other.
“I always recommend looking at the color wheel on the Internet to pick a color we like. We can then choose the total opposite of it,” confirms the MUA.“Indeed, if we want different colors, it is better to go for two opposite ones. However, if we’re looking for colors that go in tunes with each other, then we will create a fading effect between the eyeshadows. Anyways, we usually test the combination on the hand to check if it works," adds Tom.
Speaking of the product type, both creamy and powdery eyeshadows work. The spokesperson for M.A.C Cosmetics recommends to think of it as a creative touch for eye makeup.
“You need to be very open and take very genuine approach to make it modern,” mentions the makeup artist. A beauty blending sponge will always help in creating a blurring effect, in case you find the eyeshadow on the cheekbones.
Oscar de la Renta SS20
Prepare your eyelids
As a makeup artist, we must not neglect the preparatory stage of the eyelid. We usually apply a base that will allow the color to be fixed. To do that, we use a cream shadow adapted to the color of the skin. Just apply a layer with a blending brush to stretch it over the eyelid and allow the color to be more intense. Tom Sapin also recommends keeping a cotton swab to correct any pigment loss immediately.
Christian Siriano SS20
What about the rest of the makeup?
Tom Sapin recommends going light for the skin complexion, he says: "When eye makeup is strong and colorful, the skin must look very natural if you want it to stay modern."
Forget the colorblock eyeshadow if youare expecting a full-coverage foundation, or contouring technique.
To adopt a nude and natural complexion, the makeup artist recommends using second skin products: "You can opt for long wear but always working with maximum transparency."
Jason Wu SS20
However, having a light foundation texture will definitely bring the attention to dark circles. Pink or purple eyeshadows will enhance those dark circles including eyes redness. Therefore, it is crucial to choose the right concealer.
According to Tom Sapin, fair skin tones go perfectly with a pinkish concealer shade, medium skin tones with peach tint, and orangy-tone for the more tanned skin tones.
“You can also apply a beige kohl pencil line which will reduce the redness,” adds the makeup expert.
Anna Sui SS20
Finally, eyebrows are so important: “You have to work them, but lightly. Avoid making things very assertive or too clear." The makeup artist recommends using a tinted mascara and why not, curl them upwards to keep the result natural.
Finish with a lip balm or sheer gloss on the lips.